Dimitri Heinrichs
Dimitri Heinrichs is chef/co-owner of Cottontree City by Dimitri in The Hague
In 1977 Van Agt and Wiegel laid the foundation of their cabinet with you. Does a well-known politician ever join you?
‘Absolutely: Mark Rutte is a regular guest, but also other politicians or former politicians. In the back, on the spot where the bar used to be, is now a large, round table where you can eat pretty privately. But during the summer our Prime Minister can also be found outside on our terrace, in jeans and a shirt.’
Why has Le Bistroquet been transformed into a modern city bistro?
‘I came here in 2007; 2008 was our best year ever. And then the crisis kicked in… Before, Le Bistroquet was the place for all ministries SG’s (secretaries-general) and DG’s (directors-general), but also for bankers. Fridays and Saturdays were our worst days: really. The restaurant was purely business-like. But those times are over. When a new partner came, the first thing that changed was the complete rebuild of the restaurant and then the concept and the name changed too. That touched the sore spot of many guests, but thankfully we see them coming back. We have not forgotten the past: there are a number of classics on the menu and the picture of Van Agt and Wiegel at the dining table has a prominent place in the hallway.’
Parent company Cottontree stands for ‘art, food and leisure’. Is there only art on the wall or also on the plate?
‘Also on the plate, but never at the expense of the quality and taste of the dish. A beautiful cuisson or sauce, or the perfect preparation comes first. Of course we work with seasonal and regional products, like North Sea fish and shellfish, but what’s at its best doesn’t necessarily have to be from around the corner. Although i have to say, the Frankenthaler grapes from the Westland are unsurpassed.’
One dessert especially stands out…
‘You mean the ice cream of porcini mushrooms with a cream of chocolate and Jerusalem artichoke, brunoise of Jerusalem artichoke cooked in sugar water, yuzu gel, cranberries fro the fresh acidity and the skins of the Jerusalem artichoke; first washed, than blanched in sugar water and processed into chips in the drying tower. That’s one dish full of flavor. But i admit: when the first table orders crepes Suzette at six o’clock and the guests see the ritual of preparing at your table, including flambé, the dish is ordered the most. That looks fun, you can see people think… Also our classics are top sellers; most of all the steak tartare and the crispy baked thymus with peas, ginger, carrots and morels. But the tartare of tuna, king prawns and sukade from the new menu are just as good. Just like the dishes from our sister restaurant Cottontree Mer by Gert-Jan (former restaurant Seinpost).
What’s your favorite vegetable?
‘I can not choose: i am an omnivore. I took that with me from my youth. My mother only cooked fresh dishes. Two or thee times a year we ate broad beans, tender and small, with bacon and shallots. Not more often, because then the season of the fresh beans ended. The same applies to fruit. I think everything is beautiful when it’s in season.’
Why Rungis?
‘The quality is very goot; at the wholesaler you have to guess how fresh your product is. Products also remain good for longer. And when there’s a problem, they solve it. Their inspiration box with new products is also really nice: they keep you up-to-date!’