Erik en Juliën van Loo

What’s on the menu? Black tomatoes?!

Erik: ‘We serve that noir de crimee with langoustine. There is also a vegetarian version with a garnish of different types of tomatoes, tomato gel, basil, tomato chutney, gazpacho and nori that we make into tuiles. In November we also use just about every type of tuber and root.’

What do you do with celeriac?

Erik: ‘We turn it into a steak. Not one of those slices that are cut out and baked. We first make thin, rectangular slices with the slicer. We salt it and let it soak overnight. We also make a compote and then a cream of shallot with which we rub the celeriac. Layer by layer, the slices are then rolled up like a spiral. The more layers, the thicker; until it’s some kind of sausage. It is tied up, just like in the old days with sausage, and goes into the oven.”

Julien: ‘At 140 degrees Celsius, the valve closes and we coat it three times with Vegetable Jus. When the tuber is done, it goes out of the oven to cool. Then it is rolled up tightly in plastic foil to harden in the refrigerator and we cut tournedos from it.’

Erik: ‘When this dish is ordered, that piece is baked, lacquered again and it goes into the oven for a while. Black garlic puree, potato crisps, various types of cress and beurre blanc based on vegetable stock, white wine and also butter vinegar: 100 percent natural, from Italy, and with a full, but not greasy, buttery taste. Even if you don’t like vegan, you will love this.’

What is Julien’s most recent top dish?

Erik: ‘His turbot with porcini mushrooms, topinambur chips and dried porcini powder on top, combined with candied oxtail, with sherry and apricot and a slice of lardo di colonato on top. The marbré of celeriac with king boletus and Gruyère is also great.’

And your father’s latest achievement?

Erik prompts: ‘The ravioli of langoustines; it is indestructible.’ Julien pretends not to hear anything: ‘We recently had a port tasting in Parkheuvel. Then my father made a combination of Madeira, goose liver and truffle with Hollandaise and an oxtail stock. That inspired me again when coming up with my own dish.’

Two captains on a ship: who does what?

Erik: ‘Juliën is the kitchen chef. His concern is the daily kitchen, with the sous chefs and the rest of the club. I am a patron cuisinier, but above all a restaurateur. You can’t earn your money behind the stove: that’s really true. I’m all over and watch everything. I interfere in everything and where I can help, I help. Do I go by the tables? No, that chatter will soon take us an hour and a half. Standing at the door takes less time!”

Spot the differences…

Erik: ‘Besides being a lot calmer, my son was trained completely differently. He has worked with great chefs abroad, especially Australia, and masters more modern techniques. My knowledge dates back to the last century. That was a different time: sometimes Julien has to explain what he means twice. At the same time, that is the nice thing about the profession: that innovation, it is always there. You can shut yourself off from it, but then you get dusty.”

What kind of character traits would you like to have from your father?

Julien: ‘Fortunately, I got rid of my fear of failure after I started working in Australia. But I can be a bit stricter and hold people accountable. And indeed: my father’s eagle eye; he sees everything.’ Erik: ‘And then I have a right eye that is blind, you can imagine!’

Why are you loyal to Rungis?

Juliën: ‘Because of the passion we share.’ Erik: ‘It’s not that difficult: quality always wins. Moreover, I have known Gert Jan and Francis for more than 30 years. We started with absolutely nothing and look where everyone stands! That’s amazing.

What is also special is that they constantly provide innovation. What they get out of Provence is really two Challenge Leagues above the rest. Their culinary trips to Tokyo, Peru and Vietnam were truly bizarre. And then that Japan line they set up over a decade ago; already then. The great thing is: they still do business with the same people. That may have a price, I think, that is subordinate to quality. A surcharge for something special? C’est la vie.’

What is your latest discovery at Rungis?

“It’s impossible to keep track of the different types of citrus. You can also do a lot with it in the winter. From December to March it is blood orange season in Sicily. For dessert we have a sugar ball filled with champagne sabayon and vanilla, blood orange compote and grandma’s cake, such a nice fat one. There is also fennel: blanched, cooked and candied in sugar.’

Text: ellenscholtens.nl
Photography: Lyan van Furth LVFFOOD