Adrian Zarzo Habraken
Adrian Zarzo Habraken is owner/chef of restaurant Zarzo and co-owner/chef of Valenzia by Zarzo in Eindhoven.
Sun and Bodega by Zarzo will also open this summer. You’re becoming a brand!
‘That’s what they say… No just kidding, i just really like what i do…’
Why is all the focus on Eindhoven?
‘Well, i noticed Eindhoven is a big city with way too few restaurants of a certain caliber. People nowadays are looking for a more approachable concept. Me and my associate Sunny Devens wanted to respond to that. I’ve always said, any new business has to be near Zarzo, my base, and with the same opening hours. That way it remains manageable for me. I have had offers from Den Bosch, Antwerp and Brussels but for now i’m only active in Eindhoven.’
You already have a bib gourmand and a michelin star, what are your ambitions now?
‘I’ve never cooked to get a star or bib gourmand. The boys in the kitchen thought it would be fun to get a bib, even though we mainly work with 5, 7 or 9 courses. But well, that’s just our concept in Valenzia with its Asian tapas. What we didn’t know was that Michelin already thought about us. Brussels converted the price for a 3 course a la carte menu. In terms of ambition: for ten years i’ve worked in three different starred restaurants, for both the white as the black brigade. That’s how i’ve learned to work; i can’t do it differently. My goal has always been, and still is, to bring people good food and drinks in a great atmosphere. Regarding the new business: Sun becomes a restaurant with a more straightforward menu than Zarzo has. Bodega will be more taverna-like, with dishes like i’ve learned from my Spanish grandmother and father. With great wine, Vermouth, mini burgers; that atmosphere!’
How do you divide your time?
‘Sun and Bodega are at the back of Zarzo; and Valenzia is across the street. If i want to, i can walk around in just 3 minutes. If i make my round and will be around 10 minutes in every restaurant, i’m back in just 45 minutes. Do i have a dream team? I definitely can’t complain. At Zarzo are guys that are with us for already 3 to 5 years. Just like any other starred restaurant you have to work your butt off. But you get well paid and i try to mingle with everyone. But it’s also the way you approach people, you have to tickle them. For example, by opening a good bottle of wine every now and then. I’ve become more and more of a manager. You have to know the flaws of your colleagues, besides their strengths. Because i’ve learned it all, from the double topping of broad beans to cleaning the extractor, i know what i’m talking about. I can place myself in someone else’s shoes. When a colleague wants a different challenge, i can give it to them: we can switch to one of the other businesses.’
The heads of the langoustines you use at Zarzo are also used in the bouillabaisse for Valenzia. How about fruit and vegetables?
‘I hate waste: you won’t see me throw away anything quickly. The nashipear blocks have to be perfect for Zarzo, but the leftovers we can use for a vegetable juice. And we also have the food for the staff. The best thing is: certain dishes overlap. One version is good for Zarzo, while the other is more suitable for Valenzia and later on also for the other businesses. That’s why we go for a central production area. I mean, why would we make mayonnaise four times…?’
What are you looking forward to in March?
‘I look forward to the asparagus and the lambada and wild strawberries. Just red fruits in general. But also plums, apricots, white peaches and melons! We have a beautiful dish with barbecue roasted leek, halloumi style watermelon on top, made in sweet-and-sour, and topped with bonito flakes. And a nice Riesling to go with it. You see more and more vegetables going towards the friandises. At the moment, my favorite is a toffee of parsnip with fresh yogurt. An amazing combination…’
What’s the most Spanish on your menu?
‘We use a lot of romesco sauce; with roasted veggies with feta cheese and caviar. We use artichokes all year long. We cook them and then keep them in the juice of green olives. We’ve made up a beautiful sharing dish with rice, tomato, artichoke and squid. The rice is risotto-like and is spreaded in baking tins in which we put everything raw in an oven of 230 degrees. These baking tins are presented at your table, just with two spoons on the side, that’s it.’
Why did you choose Rungis?
‘I love working with Rungis. Their stock is always right and they keep their quality standard high. And they will arrange it all for you. When your colleagues are sick, i order the roseval potatoes and la ratte with the skin off. That doesn’t change the quality we want to offer.’
